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outdoor activities
Mountain biking
Strong wheels, knobbly tyres, a soft padded seat and 17 more gears than the average Nepali bike - the mountain bike is an ideal, go anywhere, versatile machine for exploring Nepal. These attributes make it possible to escape sealed roads, and to ride tracks and ancient walking trails to remote, rarely visited areas of the country. Importantly, they allow independent travel - you can stop whenever you like - and they liberate you from crowded buses and claustrophobic taxis.
Nepal's tremendously diverse terrain and its many tracks and trails are ideal for mountain biking. In recent years Nepal has rapidly gained recognition for the biking adventures it offers - from easy village trails in the Kathamandu valley to challenging mountain roads that climb thousands of meters to reach spectacular viewpoints, followed by unforgettable, exhilarating descents. For the adventurous there are large areas of the country still to be explored by mountain bike.
The kathamandu valley offers the best and most consistent biking in Nepal, with a vast network of tracks, trails and back roads. A mountain bike really allows you to get off the beaten track and discover idyllic Newari villages that have preserved their traditional lifestyle. Even today it's possible to cycle into villages in the Kathamandu valley that have rarely seen a visitor on a foreign bicycle. Each year more roads are developing, opening trails to destinations that were previously accessible only on foot.
Mainly trails are narrow, century- old walkways that are not shown on maps, so you need a good sense of direction when venturing out without a guide. To go unguided entails some risks, and you should learn a few important words of Nepali to assist in seeking directions. It's also important to know the name of the next village you wish to reach.
Note The yak Attack is a six day, 240 km mountain bike race around Annapurna Circuit, including over the 5416m Throng La. The 13 day trip costs pound sterling 1400. See www.yak-attack.co.uk for details.
The Trans Himalayan Mountain bike race is a 1000km race from Lhasa to Kathamandu via Everest Base camp that runs most years- contact Himalayan Marathons (www.everestmarathons.com/bikerace)
Routes
The Scar Road from Kathamandu
Distance 70km
Duration six hours, or two days overnight in Kakani
Start Kathamandu
Finish Kathamandu
Brief description fine views and ca challenging descent a national par, after a tough initial climb of around 700m
After admiring the view from a road side teashop, descend for just 30m beyond the gate and take the first left onto a 4WD track. This track will take you through the popular the picnic grounds frequented on Saturday by Kathamandu locals. Continue in an easterly direction towards Shivapuri. The track narrows after a few kilometers near a metal gate on your left. Through the gate, you are over the hilltop to an army checkpoint. Here it's necessary for a foreigners to pay an entry fee of RS 250 to the Shivapuri National Park. Exit the army camp, turning right where the Scar Rd is clearly visible in front of you. You are now positioned at the day's highest point - approximately 2200m.
Taking the highest hand track you start to descend dramatically along an extremely steep, rutted single trail with several water crossings. The tail is literally cut into the side of the hill, with sharp drops on the right that challenge a rider's skill and nerve. As you hurtle along, take time to admire the view of the sprawling Kathamandu valley below - it's one of the best. In recent years the trail has become quite overgrown so you may have to carry your bike several stretches and seek out the correct path. A guide would be useful for this section.
The trail widens, after one long gnarly climb before the saddle, then it's relatively flat through the protected Shivapuri watershed area. This beautiful mountain-biking section lasts for nearly 25km before the trail descends into the vallley down a 7km spiral on a gravel road. This joins a sealed road, to the relief of jarred wrists, at Budhanilkantha, where you can buy refreshments. Take a moment to see the sleeping Vishnu just up on your left at the main intersection. From here the sealed road descends gently for the remaining 15km back into the bustle of Kathamandu.
Note The Scar Rd is considered one of the Kathamandu valley's classic mountain bike adventures but it's a challenging ride for experienced riders only. Route-finding can be tricky so a guide is recommended.
Kathamandu To Dhulikhel
Distance 90km
Duration Two days.
Start Kathamandu
Finish Kathamandu
Brief description A circular route past a classic selection of the valley's cultural sights
From Thamel, head east out of town in the direction of Pashupatinath. Proceed along the northern fringe of the Pashupatinath complex, on the south side of the Bagmati River, and look for the road running off to the right near the northern end of the airport runway. From the northeast corner join the road running north - south and then the road running east to the town of Bhaktapur. This road runs parallel to the much busier Arniko Hwy and is a much better option to Bhaktapur, via the northern tip of Thimi.
You can also access this road from the Arniko Hwy take a left off the main highway, just past the bridge over the Manohara River, onto a narrower sealed road that heads back towards the airport on its east side. At the next main intersection (1.8km on) is the turn right to Bhaktapur, 16km away.
You could spend time in this wonderful preserved former kingdom, but if you intend to cycle straight through, you'll save yourself the Rs 750 entry fee by taking the roads around the town, to the north and east. Make your way to the town's eastern gate, join a tarmac road and then bear southeast.
The asphalt ends and the road continues in the form of a compacted track towards the rural village of Nala, 9km away through a beautiful corner of the valley. The track climbs gradually to a minor pass and army checkpoint. A Temple (dedicated to Machhendranth ) to rural Nala, with its pretty four roofed Bhagwati Temple in the central square.
From Nala head right and continue for 3km to Banepa, riding through the old town before hitting the main Arniko Hwy. Turn left at the highway and continue along the sealed main road for a further 4km uphill to Dhulikhel . This completes the first day (32 km).
Note This circular tour takes you along valley back roads to Dhulikhel on the first day (32km) and then to Namobuddha and back to Kathamandu via the busy Arniko Hwy.
Dhulikhel To Namobuddha and Kathamandu (37km)
The trail to Namobuddha is a popular detour from Dhulikhel, and offers superb trail riding with spectacular views of the Himalaya. for a description of the route.
From Panauti you join a sealed road that's a flat run along the valleys to the main road at Banepa. From this point you can return to Kathamandu, 26 km via the Arniko Hwy, or a ride the 3.5km, if you return to Kathamandu it's a total run of 58km via Namobuddha. For something wilder, take the adventurous alternative route back to Kathamandu via Lakuri Bhanjyang.
The Back to Kathamandu
Distacnce 30km
Duration Half-day
Start Panauti
Finish Patan/Kathamandu
Brief description Remote and difficult mountain route with almost zero traffic. A good motor bike route.
Don't let the heavenly first 4.5km of tarmac lull you into a false sense of security. The road soon deteriorates into 3km of dirt road to the village of Khuadevi, followed by 2.5km of bone-jarring stony track to Riyale. From here the valley really starts to close in and gets increasingly remote - this is definitely not the place to blow a tyre ! It's amazing how remote the route is, considering it is so close to Kathamandu, If you're not an experienced mountain biker, you're probably better off considering this as a motorbike route.
The nest 8.5km is on a smooth dirt road that switchbacks up hillsides to the pass of Lakuri Bhanjyang (1960m) . You may find some basic food stalls but the actual summit is currently occupied by the army. In the past, travel companies have set up tented camp accommodation near here but this depends on tourism numbers and the levels of army presence. Figure on two to three hours to here.
From here on it's all downhill. The first section drops down the back side of the hill, blocking the view, but you soon get great views of the Annapurna and Ganesh Himal massif - particularly spectacular in sunset's pink glow.
A Further 5km of descent, rough at times, bring you to the turn-off left to Sisneri and the first village on this side of the pass. Soon the asphalt kicks in again, shortly followed by the pleasant village of Lubbhu, with its impressive central three-tiered Mahalakshmi Mahadev Temple. Traffic levels pick up for the final 5km to the Kathamandu ring road near Patan, be prepared for the 'Civilization' to come as a bit of a shock after such a beautiful, peaceful ride.
Note This back roads track offers a great alternative return route to Kathamandu, bypassing the busy, dangerous and polluted main Arniko Hwy. It's a surprisingly remote route , so make sure you take enough water, food and spare parts as there's nothing en route.
Dhulikhel To The Tibetan Border
Distance 83km one way
Duration Four days return
Start Dhulikhel
Finish Kodari
Brief description A long descent followed by a gradual climb alongside the white water of the Bhote Kosi to the border with Tibet.
Dulihkhel To Lamosangu (49km)
From Dhulikhel you immediately begin an adrenaline - filled descent (almost 900m ) into the Panckhal valley, on a slick sealed road, with majestic views of the Himalaya adding to a thrilling ride. A couple of short climbs interrupt the descent as you cycle to Dolalghat, on the Indrawati River, a popular starting point for Sun Kosi rafting trips. On the downhill watch for overtaking buses on the blind corners.
From Dolalghat (around 53km from Kathamandu ) you cross the bridge over the Indrawati River and climb out of the Panchal valley to join the Bhote Kosi, which you follow for the rest of the journey. Owing to landslide damage there is a mixture of surfaced and unsurfaced roads. Traffic can be quite heavy along this section. The road climbs at a gentle gradient as it following the river.
A couple of kilometers past the turn-off to Jiri is Lamosangu, 27km from Dolalghat, where are a couple of fish restaurants.
Note: Add the trip from Dhulikhel to the Friendship Bridge at Kodari onto the previous itinerary for a great four or five day run from Kathamandu.
Lamosangu to Tatopani and kodari (34km)
The next section of the ride continues for around 7km to Barabise, where the road changes into a compacted dirt track with a top layer of dust that is transformed into choking clouds when buses pass; in wet weather it all turns to mud. Care should be taken during heavy rains as this section begin to get steeper and it gradually changes into a beautiful gorge with spectacular waterfalls.
The track climbs practically the entire the entire 23km to Tatopani and a further 4km to Kodari at the edge of the Friendship Bridge and the border with Tibet. The section of the ride that climbs form Tatopani to the Friendship Bridge is probably the most beautiful.
It should be possible to return as far as Borderlands the same day, taking advantage of a mainly downhill ride. Otherwise, you can stay in Tatopani and visit the hot springs there.
Note It may be possible (but dependent on border guards) for border junkies to cycle beyond the bridge and climb a rough, winding and steep track to the Chinese customs checkpoint (8km), just outside of Zhangmu (Nepali:Khasa), which is visible from the bridge.
Tatopani to Dhulikhel (79km)
The ride back to Dhulikhel is around 80km and includes the long climb out of Dolalghat, for which you should allow plenty of time. An option here is to jump on a local bus with your bicycle. Depending on how you feel after the climb, you can stay in Dhulikhel or complete the trip by retuning the 32km to Kathamandu.
Note Accommodation options are at Barabise, Borderlands Resort (a further 16km from Lamosangu, on a dirt road) and the Last Resort (4km further) for more accommodation options in this area.
The Rajpath From Kathamandu
Distance 150km
Duration Two days
Start Kathamandu
Finish Hetauda
Brief description classic but grueling on road ride over a 2488m pass, culminating with incomparable Himalayan views at Daman.
The ride begins on the Kathamandu - Pokhara Prithivi Hwy, which gives the only access to the valley. After leaving the valley, the highway descends to Naubise, at the bottom of the Mahesh Khola valley, 27km from Kathamandu, where the Rajpath intersects with the Prithvi Hwy. Take the Rajpath, which forks to the left and is well signposted, for Hetauda. Start a 35km climb to Tistung (2030m) past terraced fields, carved into steep hillsides. On reaching the pass at Tistung you descend for 7 km climb to Daman, at a height of 2322m.
This day's ride (almost all climbing) takes between six and nine hours in the saddle. Thus, with an early start it is possible to stay in Daman, which will give you the thrill of waking up to the broadest Himalayan panorama Nepal has to offer. The following day the road climbs a further 3km to the top of the pass, at 2488m. At this point you can savour the very real prospect of an exhilaration 2300m descent in 60km !
As you descent towards the Indian plains, laid out before you to the south, notice the contrast with the side you climbed, as the south side is lush and semitropical. With innumerable switch backs and a bit of speed you should watch out for the occasional bus and truck looming around blind corners. The road eventually flattens out after the right turn to cross a newly constructed bridge and the first main river crossing. The rest of the journey is a gently undulating route alongside a river; a further 10km bring you to Hetauda.( note that there are useful cyclists notebooks in the Motel Avocado.) After a night's rest you can continue along the Rajpath towards in India or turn right at the statue of the buddha in the center of town and head towards Chitwan National Park.
Note The switch backing Tribhuvan Hwy or Rajpath was the first highway to connect Kathamandu with the rest of the world. Most traffic from the Terai and India uses the highway that runs to the west between Naryangarh and Mugling , so traffic along the Rajpath is relatively light.
Hetauda To Narayangarh and Mugling
Distance 91km to Narayangarh, 105km via Sauraha.
Duration One to one and half days
Start Hetauda
Finish Narayangarh or Mugling
Brief description Tropical ride across the Terai plains, best during winter and combined with a visit to Chitwan
This is vastly different riding from that of the other rides described in this chapter, and in the summer months (May to September) it cab be a very hot and humid ride. From Hetauda, as you cycle along the flat, smooth road towards Narayangarh enjoying the lush subtropical scenery, watch for resort signposts on your left. Machan wildlife Resort's turn off is 40km from Hetauda, and the resort is reached after a further 4km of beautiful trail riding with three river crossings. Alternatively, a further 23km from the Machan turn off brings you to the Chitwan Jungle Lodge turn-off. A further 14 km brings you to Tadi Bazar and the turn-off for Saurah, reached by an interesting 6km-long 4WD track.
From Narayangarh on the banks of the Narayani River 20km from Sauraha, you can return to either Kathamandu or Pokhara via Mugling. Although some may say this section from Narayangarh to Mugling is best avoided on a bicycle because of heavy bus and truck traffic, it is nonetheless a very beautiful section of road to ride, and traffic during many times of the day can be light. The alternative is to catch a bus. If you're heading to Pokhara (96km) it may be a good idea to miss the busy highway between Mugling and Pokhara by catching a bus in Mugling . Here, the road is much improved and vehicles travel a lot faster in what are still quite dusty conditions.
Note Hetauda is just to the east of Chitwan National Park, which has a wide selection of accommodation, both in the park and in the town of Sauraha. You are prohibited from riding inside the park, but are allowed to ride directly to your resort.
At Mugling you'll find plenty of food and accommodation or break th trip at the idyllic River side Springs Resort just before Mugling at Kurintar.
Kathamandu To Pokhara Via the Prithivi Highway
Distance 216km
Duration Two days
Start Kathamandu
Finish Pokhara
Brief description Riverside views, changing scenery and plenty of traffic separate Nepal's two tourist magnets.
It's theoretically possible to make Pokhara in 12 to 14 hours of steady biking. but it's a much better idea to break the trip at the wonderful but little-visited sights of Bandipur and Gorkha, both of which are a short detour off the road and offer decent accommodation.
After leaving the valley on the Prithvi Hwy during the climb to Thankot, the highway descends to Naubise, at the bottom of the Mahesh khola valley, 27km from Kathamandu, where the Rajpath intersects with the Prithvi Hwy.
Following the thrilling, if not hair-raising descent (watching for oil slicks after on the spot truck repairs), Mugling is about the halfway mark at 120km, four to five hours ride from Kathamandu. There are also lots of simple food stops along the way at some very scenic spots.
From Mugling you keep to the right as you exit the town and within 300m you will cross the Trisuli River Bridge. The second half of your journey to Pokhara is mostly uphill, but still offers some excellent downhill. From Mugling there's an overall altitude gain of about 550m over 96km. Again there are numerous roadside cafes and food stops to keep the carbohydrates supplied. The final approach to Pokahra, with the Annapurnas as backdrop, will pick you up after a long day of biking.
Note A surprisingly large number of bicyclists show an interest in this ride, perhaps due to the riverside views, and the attraction at either end. You are almost guaranteed to see the remains of a truck or bus crash en route . The message is obvious take care on this notorious stretch of road.
Pokhara To Sarangkot and Naudanda
Distance 54km
Duration Seven hours, or an overnight trip
Start Pokhara
Finish Pokhara
Brief description Work up a sweat to two of Pokhara's best Himalayan viewpoints, followed by a great downhill coast.
Leave early and ride along Lakeside (towards the mountains) to the last main intersection and sealed road. Turn right; this is the road that returns to central Pokhara. After 2km you turn left and continue straight on (north). This intersection is the zero kilometer road marker. After a further 2km there is a smaller sealed road to the left, signposted as the road to Sarangkot.
This is winds its way along a ridge into Saragkot, providing outstanding views of the Himalayan, which seems close enough to reach out and touch. After 6km a few tea shops make a welcome refreshment stop just where the stone steps mark the walking trail to the summit. From here it's a 4WD track that closely hugs the edge of the mountain overlooking Phewa Tal. Continue until you join a Y-intersection that doubles back sharply to the right and marks the final climb to Sarangkot point. You can turn this ride into a relaxed overnight trip by staying in lodges here.
From Sarangkot continue straight ahead, riding the narrower motorcycle trails leading to Kaski and Naudanda. After the Sarangkot turn-off the trail soon begins to climb to Kaski, towards the hill immediately in front of you. The section to Kaski takes around 30 to 60 minutes, and you may need to push your bicycle on the steeper section near the crown of the hill. Over the top you follow the trail through to Naudanda. You are now at around 1590m, having gained around 840m altitude from Pokhara . The trail is rocky in parts and will test your equipment to the extreme, so don not consider riding this trail on a cheap hire bicycle.
From Naudanda it's a 32km downhill run to Pokhara along the smooth asphalt highway. This route starts with a twisting 6km descent into the Mardi Khola valley then descends gently as it follows the river, allowing an enjoyable coast almost all the way back to Pokhara.
Note The ride to Sarangkot visible directly north form Pokhara Lakeside, provides an excellent, challenging day trip. This is in fact the bicycle leg of the Annapurna Triathlon.
The view from the ridge at Naudanda is spectacularly beautiful; Dhaulagari, Manaslu, the Annapurnas and Machhpuchhare create a classic Himalayan panorama, especially on a cool, clear morning. To the south you can look down over pokhara and Phewa Tal.
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