source:- lonely planet Nepal
LUMBINI
It was here in Lumbini, in the year 563 BC, that one o history's greatest and most revered figures, Siddhartha Gautama, better known as the Buddha, was born. It's no great surprise then to learn that the world heritage-listed Lumbini is of huge religious significance and attracts Buddhist pilgrims from around the world.
the spiritual heart of Lumbini is Maya Devi temple, which marks the exact spot where the Buddha was given birth to under a Bodhi tree.
In the adjoining sacred garden you'll find a sea a maroon- and saffron-robed monks congregating under a sprawling Bodhi tree decorated with prayer flags paying homage to the lord Buddha. Maya Devi is set in the middle of the large 4km by 2.5km park grounds, known as the Lumbini development zone. Designed by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange in 1978, it's a work in progress that steadily follows the design of the 'master plan' as donations trickle in. it comprises landscaped by monasteries that have been constructed by Buddhist communities from around the world, with a vision for the sacred garden to be entirely surrounded by water and only navigable by boat.
Located 26km west of Sunauli, most people rush through Lumbini only allowing a few hours. the trick to appreciating Lumbini is to spend a night here, so you can take in its peaceful atmosphere early in the morning or late afternoon. outside the development zone, the calm feel of a Buddhist sanctum quickly vanishes into a cloud of dust at Lumbini bazaar, a typical small rural Terai town.
History
After years of work at Lumbini, archaeologists are now fairly certain that Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha, was indeed born here in 563bc. a huge complex of monasteries and Stupas were erected on the site by his followed, and the Indian emperor Ashoka made a pilgrimage here in 249 BC, erecting one of his famous pillars.
Shortly after this, an unknown cataclysm affected Lumbini. When the Chinese pilgrim Fa Hsien (Fa Xian) visited in ad 403, he found the monasteries abandoned and the city of Kapilavastu in ruins. Two hundred years later Hsuan tang (Xuan Zang), another Chinese pilgrim, described 1000 derelict monasteries and Ashoka's pillar shattered by lightning and lying on the ground. However, the site was not entirely forgotten. the Nepali king Ripu Malla made a pilgrimage here in 1321, possibly leaving the nativity statue that is still worshipped in the Maya devi temple.
Mughal invaders arrived in the region at the end of the 14th century and destroyed the remaining 'pagan' monuments at both Kapilavastu and Lumbini. the whole region them returned to wilderness and the sites were lost to humanity, until the governor of Palpa, Khadga Shumsher Rana, began the excavation of Ashoka's pillar in late 1896.
Lumbini is now creating a new archaeology for itself in the Lumbini development zone if explorers rediscover the site in a thousand years. they'll find the ruins of dozen of vast 21st-century monasteries, reflecting Buddhist cultures from across the globe.
INFORMATION
There's small tourist information center (6am-6pm) at the ticket officer that displays the master plan of the complex. for moneychangers, the up market hotels along the eastern perimeter of the ground are the best bet. 64 cyber-zone (per hr rs60; 8am-8pm) in Lumbini bazaar has slowish Internet connection.
Sights
MAYA DEVE TEMPLE
The Maya Devi temple (foreigner\SAARC RS. 50\10, camera Rs.70; 6am-6pm) sits on the exact site of the birth of the Buddha, according to Buddhist scholars. it's reputed that it was here where the heavily pregnant Maya Devi came upon a pond of extraordinary beauty amid the tick jungle, and gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama under the auspicious bodhi tree.
excavations carried out in 1992 have revealed a succession of ruins on the site dating back at least 2200 years, including a commemorative stone on a brick plinth, matching the description of a stone laid down by emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC. there are plans to raise a grand monument on the site but, for now, the ruins are protected by a plain brick pavilion.
if you remove yours shoes, you can walk around the ruins on a raised boardwalk. the focal point for pilgrims is a famous sand stone carving of the birth of the Buddha, reputedly left here by the Malla king, ripu Malla, in the 14th century, when Maya Devi was worshipped as an incarnation of the Hindu mother goddess. the carving has been worn almost flat by centuries of veneration, but you can just discern the shape of Maya
Devi grasping a sal branch and giving birth to the Buddha, with Indra and Brahma looking on. directly beneath this is a marker stone encased within bulletproof glass, which pinpoints the exact spot where the Buddha was born.
the sacred pond beside the temple is believed to be where Maya Devi bathed before giving birth to the buddha. dotted around the grounds are the ruined foundations of a number of brick stupas and monasteries dating from the 2nd century BC to the 9th century AD.
Ashokan pillar
The Indian emperor Ashoka visited Lumbini in 249 bc leaving behind an inscribed sandstone pillar to commemorate the occasion. after being lost for centuries, Ashoka's pillar was rediscovered by the governor of Palpa, Khadga Shumsher Rana, in 1896. the 6am-high pink sandstone pillar has now been returned to its original site in front of the Maya Devi temple- the pillar isn't much to look at, but it is highly revered by nepalli Buddhists.
BUDDHIST MONASTERIES
since the Lumbini development zone was founded in 1978, Buddhist nations from around the world have constructed extravagant monasteries around the birth place of the Buddha. separated by a long canal, the monastic zone is divided into Mahayana and thervada sects. each reflects the unique in terpretation of Buddhism of its home nation and together the monasteries create a fascinating map of world Buddhist philosophy.
the site is extremely spread out, so hire a bicycle in Lumbini Bazaar or rent one of archaeological zone. unless otherwise stated all the monasteries are open daily during daylight hours.
WEST MONASTIC ZONE
the west monastic zone is set aside for monasteries from the Mahayana school, which is distinguished by monks in maroon robes and a more clamorous style of prayer involving blowing horns and clashing cymbals. starting at the eternal flame (just north of the maya devi temple), follow the dirt road along the west bank of the pond to the panditarama international vipassana meditation center (580118; www.panditarama-lumbini.info), where serious practitioners of meditation can study for a nominal donation.
heading north, a track turns west to the drubgyud choling gompa, a classic tibetan style gompa built in 2001 by buddhists from singapore and nepal. the mural work inside is quite refined and a gigantic stupa is under construction next door. a small track veers south to the tasteful Manang Samaj Gompa, a giant chorten (tibetan reliquary stupa) constructed by buddhists from manag in northern nepal. further west is teh elegant Zhong Hua Chinese Busshist Monastery, one of the most impressive structures at lumbini. reached through a gateway flanked by Confucian deties, this elegant pagoda-style monastery looks like something from the forbidden city. not to be outdone, the government of south Korea is building a huge Korean Buddhist temple on the other side of the road.
just north of the chinese temple is the charming Vietnam phat quoc tu temple, due to be completed in2010. the pagoda-style monastery is beautifully landscaped and the dragon-tiled roof is delightful. nearby is a new complex of stupas and monastery buildings being constructed by the Austrian Geden international foundation. new monasteries are also planned by the governments of Mongolia and Bhutan.
further north is a second group of Mahayana monasteries, set around an l-shaped pond. the truly extravagant great drigung kagyud lotus stupa (8am-noon & 1-5pm) is one of the most beautiful temples here and was constructed by the German Tara foundation. the domed ceiling of the main prayer room is covered is some inspired Buddhist murals.
Across from the German monastery is a domed-roof Nepal temple that was still being constructed at the time of research.
Behind the German monastery is the Sokyo Gompa, a traditional Tebetan-style Gompa built by the Japanese Sokyo foundation. The new linh Son Monastery is being constructed by French Buddhists next door.
EAST MONASTIC ZONE
the east monastic zone is set aside for monasteries form the theravada school, common throughout sotheast Asia and Srilanka and recognizable by their saffron-coloured robes.
close to the north end of the pond, the stunning royal Thai Buddhist monastery (8am-noon & 1-5 pm) is an imposing wat (that-style monastery) built from gleaming white marble that gives it the appearance of having been carved from ivory.
a short cycle ride south is the myammar golden temple, one of the oldest structures in the compound. there are three prayer halls here- the most impressive is topped by a corncob-shaped shikhara (tower), styled after the temples of Bagan. nearby is the Lokamani pula pagoda, a huge gilded stupa in the southern burmese style, inspired by the shwedagon paya in yangon. further north is a Cambodian temple scheduled for completion in 20011.
behind the stupa is the modest gautami nau's temple, the only monastery in the compond built for female devotees. across the road is the small dhama janami vipassana center, where followers of the Theravada school can practice meditation.
further south, a track leads, down to the new Srilankan monastery that's very slowly being built. a short walk south from here takes you back to the eternal flame, passing a huge ceremonial bell inscribed with Tibetan characters.
Lumbini Museum
Tucked away at the back of the compound at the north end of the pond, this museum (580318; foreigner\SAARC RS. 50\10; 10am-4pm wed-Mon) is devoted to the life of the buddha, with artifacts and photos from Buddhist sites around the world, from Katmandu to Kandy. the building is an interesting contemporary design, with a series of brick cylindrical blocks fitted with large round windows.
WORLD PEACE PAGODA $ LUMBINI CRANE SANTURAY
Outside the main compound, but easily accessible by bike, the impressive gleaming white world peace pagoda (daylight ) was constructed by Japaness buddhists at a cost of us $1 million. the shining golden statue depicts the buddha in the posture he assumed when he was born. near the base of the stupa is the grave of a Japanese monk murdered by anti-buddhist extremists during the construction of the monument.
the surrounding wetlands are protected as part of the Lumbini crane sanctuary and you stand a good chance of seeing rare Sarus cranes stalking through the water meadows. there's no formal entrance to the santuary and no admission fee- just stroll into the damp meadows behind the pagoda. otherwise, the Vietnam phat quoc tu temple has resident sarus cranes that feed in its grounds.
AROUND LUMBINI
Tilaurakot
About 29km west of lumbini, tilaurakot has bee identified as the historical site of Kapilvastu, where Siddhartha Gautama spent the first 29 years of his life. the site sits in a peaceful meadow, about 3km from Taulihawa. although you can still see the foundations of a garge residential compound, it takes a certain amount of imagination to visualize the city of extravagant luxury that drove the Buddha to question the nature of existence. the surrounding farmland looks much the same today as it did in the time of Siddhartha Gautama. it isn't hard to imagine Siddhartha walking out through the imposing city gateway for the first time and seeing an old man, a sick man, a hermit and a corpse
there's a small museum (076-560128; admission rs. 50; 10am-4pm wed-mon) that displays some of the artefacts found at the site.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
the most important Buddhist celebration at Lumbini is the annual Buddha jayanti festival in april or may, when busloads of buddhists from India and nepal come here to celebrate the birth of the Buddha. pilgrim also come here to worship each purnima (the night of the full moon) and astami (the eight night after the full moon). many hindus regard the buddha as an incarnation of bishnu and thousands of hindu pilgrims come here on the full moon of the nepali month of baisakh (april-may) to worship Maya Devi as rupa devi, the mother goddess of Lumbini.
THE BIRTH OF THE BUDDHA
The historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, was the son of Suddhodana, ruler of Kapilavastu, and Daya Devi, a princess from the neighbouring kingdom of devdaha. according to legend, the pregnant Daya Devi was traveling between the two states when she came upon a tranquil pond surrounded by flowering Sal trees. after bathing in the cool water, she suddenly went into labour, and just had enough time to walk 25 steps and grab the branch of a tree for support before the baby was born. the year was 563 bc and the location has been positively identified as Lumbini.
after the birth, a seer predicted that the boy would become a great teacher or a great king. eager to ensure the later, king sudhodana shielded him from all knowledge of the world outside the place. at the age of 29, Siddhartha left the city for the first time and came face to fac with an old man, a sick man, a hermit and a corpse. shocked by this sudden exposure to human suffering, the prince abandoned his luxurious life to become a mendicant holy man, fasting and meditating on the nature of existence. after some severe austerities, the former prince realized that life as starving pauper was no more conducive to wisdom than life as a pampered prince. Thus was born the middle way.
finally, after 49 days meditating under a Bodhi tree on the site of modern-day Bodhgaya in India, Siddhartha attained enlightement- a fundamental grasp of the nature of human existence. he traveled to Sarnatha, near Varanasi, to preach his first sermon and Buddhism was born. Renamed Buddha ('the enlightened one'), Siddhartha spent the next 46 years teaching the 'middle way' - a path of moderation and self-knowledge through which human beings could escape the cycle of birth and rebirth and achieve nirvana, a state of eternal bliss.
the Buddha died at the age of 80 at Kushinagar, near Gorakhpur in India. despite the Buddha's rejection of divinity and materialism, all the sites associated with his life have become centers for pilgrimage and the buddha is worshipped as a deity across the Buddhist world. the ruins of Kapilvastu were unearthed close to Lumbini at Tilaurakot , and devotees still cross continents to visit Bodhgaya, Saranath and Kushinagr in India. more recently, the site of devdaha, the home of Maya Devi, was identified on the outskirts of the Nepali town of Butwal.
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