Religion of Nepal

source lonely planet Treeing in the himalaya Nepal

Religion

These Himalayas of the mind are not so easily  processed. There's more than precipice and storm and between you and your Everest.

'Transitional poem' (1929), Cecil Day-Lewis

The nepal Himalaya represents the meeting point of the Tibetan Buddhist world and the Hindu culture of the Indian subcontinent. These two religions overlap and blur in the hills of Nepal and most treks in this blog are, in essence, a journey between these two great faiths.

            Siddhartha Gautam, also known as Buddha, was actually born in southern Nepal. Over The centuries Buddhism lost ground to Hinduism until the Tibetan Tantric form of the religion made its way back across the mountains once more into Nepal from the 8th century onwards.

            Today, lowland Nepal is a predominately Hindu country but Tibetan related peoples of the high Himalaya, from the Everest regions to upper Langtang , Manang, Dolpo, Nupri (upper Manaslu) and the Limi valley, follow Tibetan Buddhism. In other places, Buddhism and Hinduism have intermingled into a complex synthesis that is often impossible to pick apart.

Hinduism

Hindusim is a polytheistic religion with 3500 years old roots reaching back to the Aryan tribes of Central India. The religion has three basic practices: puja (worship), the cremation of the dead, and the rules and regulations of the caste system. There are four main castes: Brahman (priests), Chhetries (soldiers and governors), Vaisyas  (trades people and farmers) and Sudras (menial workers and craftspeople ). These basic castes are then subdivided into occupational cases and beneath all of these are the Harijans, or 'untouchables' - the lowest, casteless class for whom all the most menial and degrading tasks are reserved. Westerners and other non- Hindus are outside the caste system and are therefore unclean. Any food that is touched by a westerner, or put on their plate, becomes 'polluted'  and must be discarded. The cow is, of course, the holy animal of Hindusim and killing a cow in Nepal can bring a jail sentence.

            Buddhism is in many ways more a philosophy than a religion. After years as prince and then a poor ascetic, Buddha developed his rule of the 'middle way' - moderation in everything. The Buddha taught that all life is suffering, but that suffering comes from our sensual desires and the illusion that they are important. The attainment of nirvana brings release from the cycle of suffering and rebirth. Buddhism prohibits any form of killing, a contrast to Hinduism, which often requires animal sacrifices to appease, the bloodthirsty goddess kali.

            Despite their many differences, Buddhism and Hindusim share a belief in karma (the law of cause and effect) and rebirth, and even share some religious sites and gods (Hindus consider Buddha to be a reincarnation of Vishnu). Both Hindu and Buddhist temples can be confusing because of the vast pantheon of deities, each with their own vehicles, consorts, aspect and subtle variations in costume and hand gestures. In essence, you can look upon both Hindu and Buddhist gods simply as pictorial representation of the many attributes of the divine, or even the ego.

            Several ethnic groups, including the Tamangs and Gurungs in the Middle Hills and the Newars in the Kathamandu valley, practice a blend of both Buddhism and Hindusim and , in fact, religious tolerence is the defining hallmark of Nepali society. Consider the fact that the Tibetan deity Chenresig (Avalokitesvara)  is considered by Hindus to be a manifestation of the Hindu god Shiva, who then appears in the Kathamandu valley as Machhendranath. Is he Hindu? or Buddhist?  The answer to be both, of course, is yes.

Note  The Navel of the Demoness: Tibetan Buddhism and Civil Religion in Highland Nepal, by Charles Ramble, explores the complex blend of Buddhism, Bon and animism that defines so much of Nepal's borderlands.

Shamans, Lamas and magicians

An important figure in the religious history of the entire Himalayan region is the great 8th -century saint and magician Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava in  Sanskrit). Born in what is now northern Pakistan, the guru was a historical figure but is most famous for his miraculous powers in vanquishin demons, from Samye in Central Tibet to Phoksumdo  lake in Dolpo.  'Overcoming demons' can also be read as removing the resistance of the political and religious establishment to the introduction of Buddhism. Either way, he is widely popular and his statue appears in many gomaps throughout Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.

            One of the 'demons' that Tibetan Buddhism had to overcome was the existing Bon religion, an animist faith that had long existed alongside a panoply of local cults and mountain deities. Tibetan Buddhism has largely absorbed these animist faiths, but these beliefs still linger in the remote valleys of Nepal, often wedded to Buddhist and Hindu ritual. A few pockets of Bon remains, especially in the Dolpo region. On the Annappurna Circuit you'll see animist statues of the mountain god Masta in villages such as Jharkot and Kagbeni, while on peaks and passes everywhere you'll find prayer flags that serve to pacify pre Buddhist mountain spirits, known as yul-lha

            Hindusim has also incorporated some of these ancient mountain gods; Annapurna is the Hindu deity of fertility and the harvest, while Mt Kailash and Gauri Shankar are believed to be the residences of Hindu gods Shiva and Parvati. Kanchanjunga is considered the guardian deity of Sikkim.

            Further inhabiting the space between Hinduism and Buddhism are local faith healers, or holy men, known as Jhankari or dhami. These shamans combine the role of diviner, spirit medium and medicine man. You'll most often encounter dhamis on remote trails, dressed in elegant regalia and headdress of pheasant feathers. The rhythmic sound of the drums that a dhami continually beats while walking echoes throughout the hills.

            In Tibetan communities the village lama fills the role of jhankri, blessing the fields before ploughing  and consulting astrological almanacs to advise the auspicious timing of any trading trip. A lama often double as amchi, a role that combines physician, medic and veterinarian, and makes extensive use of the Himalaya's 400 or so types of wild medicinal herbs.

            Most parents place amulets around their child's neck to protect them from evil spirits, or in lower elevations paint black kohl, or gajal, around their eyes for the same affect.

Note If you are heading out on a trek (or flying on Nepal Airlines!) bear in mind that according to Nepali superstition it's bad luck to start a journey on Tuesday or return on a Saturday.

Sadhus

A sadhu is a Hindu ascetic on a spiritual search. They're an easily recognized  group, usually wandering around half-naked, smeared  in dust, with their hair and beard matted. Sadhus most often follow Shiva and generally carry his symbol , the tredent (trisul).

            Sadhus are often people who have decided that their business and family lives have reached their natural conclusions and that it is time to throw everything aside and go out on a spiritual search. They may previously have been the village postal worker, or a businessperson. Sadhus wander over the subcontinent, occasionaly coming together in great religious gathering such as Maha Shivaratri at Pashupatinath in Kathamandu and the Jamal purnima festival at the sacred Hindu lakes of Gosaikund . You  may also see Sadhus trekking up the Kali Gandaki valley towards Muktinath.

            A few Sadhus are simply beggars using a more sophisticated approach to gathering donations, but most are genuine in their sarch.

Visiting Gompas

From Lhasa to Lantang, Tibetan-style gompas share a striking continuity of desing, most are located on a hillside with a fine view, demonstrating their strategic  importance, while  others are in villages.

            Most small monasteries in remote communities have only one room, the dukhang or assembly hall, while  others also have side chapels. The vestibule features colorful painted representations of the wheel of life alongside the Four Guardian kings, while the ceilings of both monasteries and kanis (entry chortens) are decorated with kaleidoscopic mandalas, a kind of geometric visual aid to mediation.

            The main altar will have photos of important lineage holders such as the Karmpa or Dalai Lama, plus bowls of water, butter lamps and some plastic flowers. Hanging in the semi-darkness are demonic festival masks and sometimes ceremonial trumpets.

            The main statues are likely to include Sakyamuni, the histrocal Buddha; Jampa (Matreya), the future Buddha; and the 'lotus born' saint Guru Rinpoche. Bodhisattavas include Chenresig (Avlaokietesara) representing compassion; Jampelyang (Manjushri) represting wisdom, and Drolma (Tara), a female deity symbloising purity and fertility. Fierce protector gods such as Channa Dorje (VajrapaniO and Mahakala (Nagpo Chenpo), the Great Black One, guard the entries.

            Another common figure is the popular 11th -century magician and poet milarepa, who is said to have travelled widely throughout the Himalayan borderlands, including to Shey Gompa, the Manag valley and Nupri.